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QORIKANCHA
The
famous Sun Temple of Qosqo was and is in practice
a synthesis of the Inkan organization, architecture
and religion; that had already reached the summit
of their level by 1438. It possibly represented
the "Navel of the World"; therefore,
the world's center in the pre-Hispanic Andean
Cosmovision.
According
to our history, it was the first Inka, Manko Qhapaq
who built the original temple. But, it was the
ninth, Pachakuteq who since 1438 reconstructed,
enlarged, improved and modernized the most important
religious complex of the vast Inkan Society. |
There
are certain discrepancies about the complex's
original name, and though they are not antagonistic
ones, they cause a relative confusion. Frequently
in chronicles and history treatises the name Intiwasi
is found, (inti= sun, wasi= house) it means "Sun
House"; also the name Intikancha is
used and which would mean "Sun Palace"
(this is considering that almost all Inkan palaces
had the noun "Kancha"). While that its
most popular name is Qorikancha that would
mean "Golden Palace". Maria Rostworowski
suggests that the ancient temple was known as
"Intikancha" and after Pachakuteq as
"Qorikancha".
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All
the chroniclers coincide manifesting that the
quality of the building was extraordinary, made
with gray basaltic andesites coming from the quarries
of Waqoto and Rumiqolqa. The walls have the "Sedimentary"
or "Imperial Inkan" type that is the
maximum expression of architecture in pre-Columbian
America. The stones are between medium to large
which outer surface is rectangular; the structure
is straight horizontal that in the most important
temples exhibit side views with marked convexity.
The joints between stones are polished, so perfectly
made that they do not allow insertion of even
"razor blade". The cross section structure
is "tied up", that is, with "H"
shaped bronze clamps or clips in the internal
joints that fastened together the lithic pieces
avoiding harmful horizontal displacements in case
of earthquakes. The wall also have a decreasing
vertical structure, that is, with bigger stones
in the lower part and every time smaller toward
the top. The walls are wider in the base than
on the top; with the classical inclination inward
(there is not a general rule or measurement for
that inclination) balanced with the trapezoidal
shape of doorways, niches and openings. Those
characteristics make the walls support themselves
forming a resistant, solid, anti-seismic structure
that was able to resist the two huge earthquakes
after the Spanish invasion, in 1650 and 1950 that
destroyed every tough colonial building. Today
in some Inkan walls of the complex there are a
few cracks. They are not a result of bad calculation
or technique of the Quechua architects, but simply,
consequence of changes carried out in colonial
times, the earthquakes and mainly exposition to
inclement weather and erosion after all of them.
According to some studies the finely carved stone
walls had a continuation of sun-dried mud-bricks
on the top forming very steep gable ends in order
to enable drainage of rain waters. The roofing
was thatched made in wood and "ichu"
the wild Andean bunch grass, with eaves projecting
out about 1.6 mts. (5.25 ft); roofs which modest
aspect was remedied in festivity days when they
were covered with showy multicolored rugs made
with special feathers. Gasparini believes that
the often mentioned by chroniclers "gold
edging" that served as a crown surrounding
the whole outer upper side of the temple served,
more over, in order to dissemble the difference
between the fine stone wall and the upper adobe
wall. The floor in the open areas of the temple
must have been completely and finely paved with
flagstones while the floors inside the enclosures
were surely made with kilned clay as a solid ceramic
block like the treated floors found in Machupicchu.
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The
temple's main gate faced toward the Northeast;
almost in the same position of the present-day
entrance to the Santo Domingo (St. Dominic) Convent,
overlooking the Intipanpa
("Sun Plaza") that today occupies the
small park in front. According to chroniclers
this was a religious complex constituted by temples
dedicated to different deities. It had a layout
very similar to that of a classical "kancha";
with enclosures around a central patio where according
to Cieza de Leon, every doorway was veneered with
gold plates.
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The Sun
Temple stood out in the complex, covering the space
occupied today by the Santo Domingo Catholic Church.
Its eastern end was completely demolished while the
western one still subsists partially forming what is
known as "solar round building", that is,
the semicircular wall overlooking the present-day Arrayan
street and the Avenida el Sol. The Sun Temple had its
four walls and even the wooden ceiling completely covered
with gold plates and planks, according to Garcilaso's
description it must had a rectangular floor plan, with
a very high thatched roof for facilitating ventilation.
It is worth pointing out that whom gives the most detailed
information about the subject is the famous Cusquenian
Chronicler Garcilaso de la Vega, who wrote as it is
indicated by himself: "... what I swallowed
in the milk and saw and heard from my ancestors...".
On the eastern wall of this temple must have been the
facade and Main Altar that as it is known contained
the representation of the Sun God in a gold plate with
the shape of a "round face and rays and flames".
That solar representation was so huge that it covered
all the temple front from wall to wall; in the treasures
distribution among the conquerors, that golden piece
corresponded by casting of lots to Mancio Sierra de
Leguisamo, an inveterate gambler who lost it during
one night playing dices; event by which the famous saying
" bet the sun before dawn" was created.
Chronicler Sarmiento de Gamboa suggests that Pachakuteq
ordered a layout so that the Sun would occupy the main
place along with the Wiraqocha god representation
on its right side and that of Chuquiylla (it
must be "Chuki Illapa" or thunder, lightning
and thunderbolt) to its left side. Also, on both sides
of the Sun image were the "Mallki" (mummies
or embalmed bodies in a fetal position) of the dead
Inka Kings, according to their antiquity, and over litters
of solid gold.
In the Andean
Cosmogony it was considered that the Moon or Mamakilla
was the Sun's wife. Therefore, the Moon Temple
was located on the eastern side of the Solar Temple;
it had a rectangular floor plan with the best quality
of architecture, unfortunately it was almost completely
destroyed in order to built the Catholic Church. One
of its gates is still seen as well as its eastern wall
with the classical trapezoidal niches. Among those niches
is the horizontal dark stripe that is believed to be
the support zone of the silver plates that covered completely
its walls. In the center of the temple there was a silver
Moon representation and on both sides of it the embalmed
bodies of the dead Qoyas (Queens), according
to their antiquity.
More over,
in this vast complex there were 5 Water Fountains,
in which flowed clean water transported through underground
channels; the water springs or sources were kept completely
secret. Those water fountains had religious duties as
water was another deity in the Andean Religion; they
were also adorned with precious metals, had golden spillways,
and large gold and silver jars. In colonial times the
water was dried up as a consequence of lack of maintenance
and on-purpose destruction. Garcilaso indicates that
he saw just one of them: the last one that Dominican
monks used to irrigate their vegetable garden. Since
1975, the convent and church were reconstructed, at
the same time some archaeological digs were performed
too; they finally made possible finding one
of the 5 original fountains. It is located
lower and before the "solar round building";
water still flows through its finely carved channels.
It is possible that in the future remains of the other
fountains described by Garcilaso will be found. Until
1990 most of the Solar Garden's space was covered by
different buildings; thanks to a law that was put into
effect by the end of the 80s, the central government
and especially the Qosqo's Municipality bought the lands
and houses of the sector and some archaeological works
were carried out. The aim was to uncover our past and
make known the so little that is left from the complex's
greatness; which as Spanish soldier Cieza de Leon wrote
"... finally, it was one of the rich temples
existing in the world."
In the middle
of the cloister's central patio is an eight sided fountain
carved in a single andesite piece that according to
some historians it has Inkan manufacture. However, its
shape and characteristics are not classical in Inkan
stonemasonry. Therefore, if it was carved in Inkan times
it must had another shape that was transformed in colonial
times. Also today, around the archways there is a collection
of canvases representing the life of
Saint
Dominic Guzman painted by anonymous local
Cusquenian School artists.
After the
distribution of houses and palaces during the Spanish
invasion, the Qorikancha corresponded to Juan Pizarro
who donated it to the Dominican Order represented by
the first bishop of Qosqo City Fray Vicente Valverde.
He immediately executed construction of their
church
and convent over the most important Inkan
Temple demolishing it almost completely for adapting
it to its new use. That original church was destroyed
by an earthquake on March 31, 1650. Subsequently, the
present-day structure was raised as well as the tower
in 1780 with an elaborate baroque under direction of
Fray Francisco Muñoz. On May 21st. 1950 another violent
earthquake destroyed a large part of the convent and
church as well as its tower leaving uncovered many Inkan
structures and the interior area of the "Solar
Round Building". By that time a strong "Indigenist
Movement" suggested the relocation of the church
and recovery of the Sun Temple; it is a pity that Catholic
Church's political power did not allow that attempt
for clearing the ruins of the major Tawantinsuyo's sanctuary.
Qosqo
Incas Sacred Capital
SAN
BLAS (SAINT BLAISE) CHURCH
San Blas
is today a downtown neighborhood in the city known as
the " Artists' District", with narrow and
writhing streets, most of them steep. In Inkan times
it was one of the most important districts of Qosqo
and its name was "T'oqo-kachi" (T'oqo = hollow;
kachi = salt). Like the other districts it was inhabited
by the Quechua nobility. It seems that the church was
erected over an Inkan Sanctuary devoted to cult of the
"Illapa" god (Thunder, Lightning and Thunderbolt).
It was possibly opened for the first time in 1544 by
the city's second Bishop Juan Solano. Although some
other versions say that it was after 1559 as consequence
of viceroy Andres Hurtado de Mendoza's order by which
"Indians" had to built churches for their
indoctrination in the districts where they lived. Its
structure was simple with a rectangular floor plan and
mud brick walls, but after the earthquakes in 1650 and
1950 it was partially reinforced with stone walls. It
has just one nave and two gates before which there are
big plazas; and a stone bell tower constructed after
the 1950 earthquake instead of the original made with
mud bricks.
Inside the
church is one of the greatest jewels of colonial art
in the continent: the Pulpit of Saint Blaise; which
is a filigree made in cedar wood by expert hands managing
a gouge. It is not known with certainty who was the
artist or artists that made it, how long the work lasted,
neither any other details about it. However, the pulpit
is over there as a mute witness of a great Catholic
devotion and devoted work. There are enough proofs to
assert that it was made carved with funds given by art
protector Bishop Manuel Mollinedo y Angulo; therefore,
it was by the end of the XVII century. There are serious
discrepancies about the identity of the performing artist.
Most authors
suggest that it was made by the most famous Quechua
woodcarver: Juan Tomas Tuyro Tupaq, that was contemporary
and protected of Mollinedo y Angulo, who entrusted him
the manufacture of several works. It also could have
been work of some other artists contemporary with Mollinedo
such as Martin de Torres, Diego Martinez de Oviedo who
made the monumental High Altar of the Compañia de Jesus
Church, or the Franciscan Luis Montes that made the
San Francisco Church's choir. Oral tradition has its
version gathered by Angel Carreño who in his "Cusquenian
Traditions" manuscript had stated in writing the
name Esteban Orcasitas as the pulpit's author; but,
for the 1st. edition of his book the name was changed
by that of Juan Tomas Tuyrutupa. Tuyrutupa was Quechua
and Cusquenian, but according to that traditional version
he was a leper woodcarver from Huamanga (Ayacucho).
The story tells that once he had in his dreams a revelation
of the "Holy Virgin of the Good Happening"
who told him that if he wanted to get healed from his
leprosy he had to look for her in the small plaza of
Arrayanpata in Qosqo City. After a long journey and
many mishaps, one day he found her painted on a wall
after that the roofing of the "Lirpuy-Phaqcha"
chapel fell in. Falling on his knees and weeping he
invoked her, as the Virgin's rosary became rose petals
with which he rubbed hard his whole body remaining thus
completely healed. The piece of wall containing the
painting was cut and moved to the Saint Blaise Church,
then people agreed upon to build an altarpiece and a
pulpit for the Virgin. The grateful Quechua woodcarver
committed himself to make the pulpit without charging
any money for the work estimated in 1400 pesos. The
work took him 4 years of hard labor with wood from an
enormous cedar tree that was cut in the Kusipata square
(present-day Regocijo). But, when finishing his work
the woodcarver failed his oath as he asked the church's
curate for 70 pesos in order to lionize a Cusquenian
half-breed woman. After fastening the Saint Paul statue
over the pulpit's sounding board, he stumbled and fell
off dying soon after. His corpse was buried under the
pulpit but some time later it was taken out and his
skull placed before the feet of the Saint Paul sculpture,
where it is seen today.
As any other
normal pulpit, that of Saint Blaise has a balcony (basin),
a thorax (main body), a sounding board (cupola), and
a gallery (entrance). The Basin is spherical and supported
by a bronze structure.
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